How many stories are weaved every day in the kitchen and with mom? They are innumerable, for that reason, for the Mother’s Day We only collect three anecdotes from three beloved chefs with whose recipes they continue to pay tribute to their mothers.
Flavio Solorzano, Elena Santos Izquierdo and Stephanie Pellny recall how the carapulcra, the lamb a la jijuna and the Alfredo style noodles contain, in addition to a lot of flavor, the memory and affection of mothers and grandmothers.
1. Flavio Solorzano, The Lordship of Sulco
Carapulcra is a dish that my grandmother used to make at home long before the restaurant. It was the late 70’s and early 80’s, I was still very young, but I remember that as soon as I reached the burners I could feel the aroma. It always seemed delicious to me. My grandmother made it very well, but when we had the restaurant, my mother (Isabel Álvarez) did a lot of research and my grandmother’s recipe began to be polished and has nothing to do with the one that is prepared now.
It is a perfectible dish and the one that has had the most intervention in the history of my family and the restaurant. I clearly remember that my mother went to La Victoria, she went into the Renovación neighborhood, and brought Doña Catalina a woman much older than my grandmother, and she happily shared her neat face with us. We say El Señorío unearthed the use of chocolate in the carapulcra and put it back, the clay pot, but all these things have been added not only by my mother’s research and my grandmother’s hand, but also by the amount of important women, mothers and ladies of Peruvian cuisine, unknown to many.
Once, at lunchtime, snacking from here and there, I discovered the mixture of carapulcra with ají de gallina and it fascinated me without realizing it. My mom walks in one day when I was having carapulcra for lunch with ají de gallina, she sees me and grabs her face and says: “I can’t believe it, I thought she was the only person in the world who did that.” It was the coolest thing that could happen. Every time she sees me eating this dish she grabs her face and says, “Well, you’re my son.” That is the link between the carapulcra and my mother, this kind of sun and shadow between the carapulcra and the ají de gallina that we end up eating.
2. Elena Santos Izquierdo, The corner you don’t know
Lamb a la jijuna
I chose the recipe because I think we are the only ones who prepare it, it is not a common recipe for traditional food. It is one of the dishes that my mother established and a recipe from my grandmother. The lamb a la jijuna that we offer is what my grandmother came up with one day when she saw that some rocoto peppers were deteriorating and nothing could be thrown away in the house, so she made that preparation to make it useful. She prepared a base of hot peppers and, so that it does not sting so much, she put it together with a pepper. She processed it and grabbed the meat and marinated it in chicha de jora.
The next day, he made his preparation and when he tried it, he told my mom that it had turned out like jijuna because it was still itchy. Jijuna is an expression that means something strong, intense. She stayed that way and at home from time to time she prepared. When we opened the restaurant, my mom had the idea of making that dish. We decided to prepare it as part of our menu. It is a dish that we are very fond of and it is very pleasant. I am the third generation that is doing it. My mom kept it like my grandmother did, macerating the lamb in chicha de jora. What my mother did differently was to brown the meat a little, something that my grandmother did not do. We give it a little gold to make it more presentable and have a little shine.
3. Stephanie Pellny, The Gastronaut
A recipe that reminds me a lot of my mom is Alfredo noodles. It is not the classic or traditional Alfredo style that is known in the rest of the world, at least in my house we knew what my mother prepared as Alfredo, how she began to make the sauce, how small she cut the ham. My brothers and I loved it because it mixed all the pasta together with the sauce so that every bite has plenty of sauce.
He made sure not to serve it separately as is sometimes done because maybe he could tell that one of my brothers had more sauce or my brothers could tell that I had more sauce than on their plate. In this way, he ensured that we all received the same, were happy and enjoyed ourselves.
1. Carapulcra, by Flavio Solorzano
- 100 g lard
- 500 g pork belly
- 60 g garlic paste
- 4 tbsp yellow pepper paste
- 3 tbsp red chili paste
- 1 cup brunoise red onion
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 pinch black pepper
- 1 pinch cumin
- 1 pinch cinnamon
- 1 pinch of veneer pepper
- 1 lt light beef stock
- 400 gr dry potato
- 80 g roasted peanuts
- 10g dark chocolate
- 100 ml port wine
Toast dry potato, rinse, soak for 3 hours. Sauté the cubed bacon in a pot with butter, remove and reserve. For the stew: sauté the garlic, peppers, onions and spices in butter for 30 minutes and add the dried potato with all the soaking water, the stock a few at a time, and the sautéed meat, cook until softened potato, finish with chocolate and salt. Add port wine when lowering the heat.
With what to pair?: It can be paired with a Doña Paula Estate Blue Edition blend or a Carmenere such as the 120 de Santa Rita Reserva Especial.
2. Lamb a la jijuna, by Elena Izquierdo
- 800 g boneless leg of lamb
- 150g brunoise chopped onion
- 1 tbsp of garlic paste plus 1/2 spoon (the half spoon is for the macerate)
- 1 tsp black pepper + 1
- 1 tsp cumin + 1
- 2 large clean peppers without seeds
- 1 medium red bell pepper
- 1 liter of broth
- 1/2 liter of unsweetened chicha de jora
- 1 cup of oil
Chop the meat and wash it well, dry it, then season it with the spices and garlic and add the chicha. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove from the cold and proceed to the preparation.
Clean the peppers well. Once clean, boil them twice before changing the water. Once cooked reserve. Clean the pepper and cook it in water. Once cooked, put it together with the hot pepper in a frying pan and sear them with a splash of oil, let cool and process, keep waiting. Remove the macerated pieces of meat and reserve the juice, drain them well and brown them in a frying pan. Once golden leave on hold. Heat oil in a pot and proceed to fry the brunoised onions, garlic, pepper and cumin. Once ready, add half a liter of the broth and then add the prey plus the juice that remained from the maceration, cover and cook until the meat is soft, then add the liquefied hot pepper and the rest of the broth, season with salt to taste, lower the heat and cook until the meat is fully cooked. Serve accompanied by white rice and parboiled yuccas.
With what to pair?: With a Doña Paula Smoked or a young Cabernet Sauvignon like the 120 from Santa Rita Reserva Especial.
3. Alfredo style noodles, by La Gastronauta
- 50 grams of butter
- 50 grams of unprepared flour
- 1 liter of fresh milk
- 200 grams of chopped English ham
- 250 grams of spaghetti
- Salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste
For the sauce, in a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and add the unprepared flour to make a ‘roux’, which is a mixture of equal parts butter and flour. Mix continuously for a few minutes so that the flour finishes cooking, about 5 minutes or until the mixture dries. Pour a liter of cold fresh milk, it is important that it is at this temperature since when it comes into contact with the hot ‘roux’, it will prevent the formation of lumps. Regardless, I recommend stirring non-stop, ideally with a wire whisk. Continuing to stir, about five minutes later it will come to a boil and the mixture will have thickened enough to cover a spoon. At that time, we remove from the fire. We would only need to add chopped ham to your preference and rectify the seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste. To serve, prepare the spaghetti according to the package directions so they are al dente, drain, and add directly to the sauce. Finish with Parmesan cheese on the plate and enjoy.
What to pair with?: With a very cold wheat beer