At this point in the pandemic, there are not a few of us who have already become familiar with the term dark kitchen, created to define gastronomic brands that sell food for delivery, without having a physical restaurant. They are translated as “hidden kitchens”, but the truth is that not all of them are. The dark kitchen that Arlette Eulert has just launched – christened Brutal – operates in the same kitchen as Matria, the signature restaurant that opened eight years ago in Miraflores. Both formats coexist in a single space, but each one has its time, its recipes and its personality. The first is wild, fierce, huge. The second is a proposal based on sensitivity, technique and seasonal products, which is fed by different references. Brutal and Matria are like two opposites that attract each other.
Let’s start with the ingredients: the Brutal project started cooking long before the pandemic; At the beginning, the Peruvian chef wanted it to be a kind of dining room with an average ticket lower than Matria and abundant portions, in the style of a picantería (she does not rule out doing it in the future). We continue with the recipe, which had some modifications along the way: the pandemic arrived and Arlette’s plans – like those of a good part of humanity in the last 18 months – changed. Delivery took hold and the rise of hidden kitchens began. Brutal could no longer wait.
“We have been slow to have it,” explains Eulert. “There are many letters at the same time and we had to sort ourselves out. On the one hand we have Matria Cocina, which is the restaurant; then we have our delivery, which is Matria Despensa; and now we have Brutal, our dark kitchen. All three come out through order applications and we have our own delivery ”, he explains about his current operation. Fortunately, multitasking is something that women usually do well.
The pot is full
The days have to be organized well: in addition to commanding her kitchens, Arlette records a program (The Great Pantry, Plus TV), teaches classes and is always looking for new projects. Sometimes hours are missing, but everything is achieved. “The biggest challenge is to do everything from Matria’s kitchen, which is very small,” the chef tells us. “We had to add more burners,” he laughs. His Miraflores location is now his production center; Different menus and products are prepared at the same time and everything is done, in addition, without suspending the service.
“With Brutal what we are doing is helping Matria have more flow, but with a different concept,” adds Eulert. “What dark kitchen it could be anywhere, it doesn’t necessarily have to be there. As soon as I can take them off, I will, “he says about his future plans. What both proposals do have in common – in addition to Arlette’s seasoning – are quality ingredients, although in Brutal the prices are considerably cheaper. “It is difficult to maintain our average ticket with the changes we are seeing in product prices, but here we go,” he says. The result is worth it.
Soups and rice. A winning duo at the Peruvian table, which does not know about climates, seasons and occasions: there is always room for one or the other, or -even better- both. Brutal has a small but strong card. While most servings are personal, Arlette explains that they could easily serve two people. “Unless you are very, very hungry,” he adds.
His are repowered versions of rice classics that we all know, but with a particular, unique twist. We found, for example, a “Dame power”, rice with prawns, mussels and concentrated crab litter broth (S / 30); a “Double yolk”, atamalado rice with huachana sausage and double yolk egg (S / 23); a “La bomba”, creamy rice with Peruvian sausages, prawns, wings, mussels and bacon (S / 35); or a “What is your cau cau”, creamy rice with cau cau juices and all “su recutecu” (S / 31). As the cook explains, one of the most interesting things about the project is that the public gets to know “another version of Arlette”.
There are two kinds of soups: “La Reponedora” (S / 39.50; to share), with half baked chicken and flavors of aguadito; and “La criolla” (S / 27), a Creole soup with chorizo and tenderloin. You can order some combos of rice and soups; extras (like portion of chicken); and two dessert options: lemon pie and amelcochada chocolate cake. Brutal’s is a round menu that adds color to winter, with exactly the kind of dishes that makes eating with a spoon all together.
How to order?
Requests: Whatsapp 948-222779 o Rappi
Schedules: Tuesday to Saturday from 12:30 pm to 4 pm and from 6 pm to 9 pm | Sundays from 12:30 pm to 4 pm