They are recruiting a profession: seamstress-mechanic, hands are in demand.

There are an infinite number of materials and designs, just like there are an infinite number of different breasts. However, lingerie brands do have a responsibility to offer products that suit as many people as possible and, above all, that make women feel good, no matter what their breast shape.

Achieving this delicate balance between comfort, support, performance requirements and possibly aesthetics requires a long period of research and development. This in-depth thought leads to the fact that many of the parts that make up the bra are entrusted to sewing mechanics. Predominantly a female profession, but some men have come to work in it, and they are always welcome if they enjoy sewing, among other things.

Jacqueline Delano joined Chantelle at the very beginning of the 1990s, in Epernay (Marne), as a typist or corset maker, a profession that can also be called because it involves the concept of support. “It takes a lot of dexterity,” says the fifty-year-old woman turned fashion designer, “because in our house we work with knitwear, cotton, silk, satin and lace. So we need to be very careful but also versatile as we put together eight to fifteen pieces of fabric. »

“You need precision in execution, real know-how”

The brand hired six people last year and will continue to do so in 2024. “We welcome CAP or BEP, I would even say all types of profiles, because like many manual labor professions, we do not talk enough about our profession. There are not many sewing schools teaching young people anymore. That’s why we have a training center,” she explains.

If the needs of different companies are often constant, it is because the sector is doing quite well and there is a constant need for research work. “A bra needs to adapt to different body shapes, which explains the variety of sizes. The width of the back does not coincide with the depth of the cups, emphasizes Karine Sfar, general delegate of the Federation of Knitwear, Underwear and Beachwear. The whole equation to solve is finding a balance between well-being and content. That’s why we need precision in production, real know-how in this profession. A good bra is one that you can no longer feel! Even if it sublimates women, we should forget about it. »

The “no bra” trend, that is, not wearing a bra, has not weakened the market, which remains very dynamic. “If fashion and clothing are sometimes struggling at the moment, lingerie is holding up well because they are high value-added products. In addition, the active development of sports underwear for dancing or running also supports this sector in the constant search for progress and innovation. Today we prefer microfibers, products with invisible seams to avoid friction, or shapes with excellent support without the slightest chipping. For all these reasons, qualified people are needed and hired. »

Passionate masters

Although the needs are clear, people wishing to explore this profession still need to have a good knowledge of textiles and sewing. However, fashion schools rarely provide education specific to corsetry. This deficiency explains the numerous in-house training courses that were subsequently offered to candidates to acquire the necessary foundation of knowledge.

Along with brands or large specialized houses, there are also passionate craftsmen. Paloma Casil, who owns her own boutique on Rue Grenelle in Paris (7th arrondissement), is one of them. She could talk for hours about lingerie, material, the female body and half measures. The company offers for sale about 2,000 pieces per year and can adapt each of its models to the needs of its customers, to their body, morphology or desire for material and comfort.

“I show the seams because they feed the design,” explains the designer, who has been self-employed since 2012 and has earned the title of master of art, with good humor. We start with a rigid corset that gives structure to the chest and then, with the help of my two seamstresses, adapt to the skin, weight or shape. »

And in conclusion about education: “In Paris there is a secondary school called Octave Feuillet (16th century). (which organizes its open day this Saturday March 9th from 9:00 to 17:00 on the street of the same name). Every year 30 students study at this school in our profession. I recommend this place is excellent quality.”

YOU DECIDE :

Book : Becoming a Fashion Designer: Women’s Underwear, Naja Ouhab Rassas, 192 pp., €45.70, ESMOD Éditions.

Website : cdma.greta.fr/domain-offres/metiers-de-la-mode/.