Retinol: Beware the risk of irritation, tips for safe use

With over a million posts on Instagram and 4.8 billion views on the hashtag #retinol, interest in retinol is growing. Many people show their skin evolving through use, which increases its popularity.

An anti-aging active ingredient belonging to the retinoid family (vitamin A), ubiquitous in cosmetic stores, it is easily available. But users are not always well informed about the product’s risks.

In an interview with Le Parisien, Nadine Pomared, dermatologist and founder of DermoMedicalCenter, explains that retinol “exfoliates the surface layers of the skin, increases skin cell turnover, reduces clogged pores and the appearance of blackheads, reduces age spots and stimulates collagen production. , elastin and fibronectin. » The cosmetic active ingredient also increases levels of skin support molecules.

“Irritation phenomena may occur”

Thanks to all these actions, it prevents and corrects skin aging. But in the case of the most sensitive skin, it can also have an irritating effect. “The more concentrated the product, the more irritating it can be,” warns dermatologist Marc Perroussel. As a result, redness and peeling.

The European Union Commission decided to regulate its marketing. From 2026, creams and serums sold in Europe will no longer be able to contain more than 0.3% retinol. “Determining a cosmetic rather than a medical dose will help limit side effects,” the dermatologist adds.

In addition to the concentration of the product exfoliating the top layers of the skin, improper use of the product can cause irritation. Two dermatologists agree on application every other day and always in the evening, after cleansing the skin.

Photosensitizing effect.

“Retinol is a real craze, but be careful about overdoing it in the summer,” warns Dr. Marc Perrousel. Retinol is a photosensitizer, so its use increases skin sensitivity to solar radiation, especially ultraviolet radiation. Skin that is thinner and more sensitive becomes more prone to burns. Medical trainee Carla Valette, who has millions of views on TikTok, also reminded about vigilance. “Apply it only in the evening, and use sun protection the next day,” she reminds.

To prevent risks, Dr. Nadine Pomar recommends “discontinuing retinol use when exposed to the sun.”

Nadine Pomar also recommends avoiding combining it with other exfoliating beauty products such as AHAs or BHAs (fruit acids). “Those who are reactive or hypersensitive should use it cautiously, always with additional treatment, and start with a low-concentration retinol product so as not to increase redness,” the doctor adds. Retinol can be combined with moisturizers or hyaluronic acid.

Preliminary skin test

Before using a new product, it is best to conduct a skin tolerance test by applying a small amount of product behind your ear or on your wrist. A strong reaction will indicate that it is better to do without it. And when in doubt, “the person authorized to give the best skin advice remains the dermatologist,” concludes Marc Perroussel.