Sometimes we Lima do not realize how lucky we are. We complain about everything (always with valid reasons, of course; living in Lima it has become an act of faith), but we have become used to taking a meager privilege for granted; a gift that is included in the birth certificate: inhabit a city that overlooks the sea. The only capital in South America to do so, by the way. The benefits are multiple and we are not going to list them here, but they include the immense joy of eating a fresh ceviche listening to the waves of the Pacific when it provokes us. Among other pleasures.
There are many ways to execute this magnificent right, but there is one that until relatively recently was alien to us: doing it from above. There are more and more options that allow it -especially in hotels- with a very fashionable format throughout the world, known in English as rooftop but translated into Spanish as rooftop or roof. We will use the Anglo-Saxon term to understand each other in this text. The “rooftops” They are spaces conceived to offer a sustained culinary experience in good drink and food to share (we usually find snacks, given the nature of Peruvians to always get together in large groups) with spectacular landscapes as a setting. And few things compare to the first sip of chilcano watching a sunset with the Villena bridge in the background.
We already have a few: Celeste (Hyatt Centric, San Isidro) e Input (located at the AC Hotel Lima Miraflores; currently under renovation) are perhaps the most popular, with a few more openings coming up. The last one has been 27 Tapas, Peruvian tapería installed on the 18th floor of the brand new Iberostar Selection hotel, in Miraflores, commanded by the chef Carlos Testino (Aramburú group) with a renewed menu and a different experience from the one in San Isidro, the original headquarters of said space. Here creativity and scenery come together in a special format, unique in the city. The rooftops they are still a rare thing, and it is worth getting to know them little by little.
27 Tapas was born about four years ago as a kind of younger brother of Lima 27, a Sanisidrino restaurant belonging to the Aramburú gastronomic group, which is currently on hiatus in terms of service. The idea was simple and tasty: prepare a menu with 27 different tapas, combining gastronomic inspirations from here and there. The pandemic changed the course of things a bit, although, as the chef tells us Carlos Testino, the project to transfer this culinary concept had been closed since before the arrival of covid-19. The only thing left was to wait.
Three weeks ago 27 Tapas opened its doors (those of the elevator, that is; it is located on the 18th floor of the Iberostar Selection in Miraflores) to the public. The space is wide: there is a capacity for almost 100 people, with ventilation on all fronts, and a menu that still does not reach the 27 tapas alternatives, but will soon have them. The ideal is to go early, since they do not accept reservations on the premises.
“The letter has completely changed. Everything we have developed is new and is also aligned with the characteristics of the brand (Iberostar), which is Spanish. There is an important awareness about sustainability and the products we use ”, explains Testino about his new menu. “The first week we came out with 12 tapas; for this one, which is the third, we are going 18. And so they will be added. The most interesting thing is also that we have a menu of dishes with half portions that include fideuá, black rice with vóngole and razor clams, a honeyed rice with strip roast, among others. Not everything is montaditos or finger food”, He says.
When it comes to rooftops You have to understand that, although the experience is based on a restobar where cocktails are important, here you come -especially- to eat. In the menu of 27 Tapas we find from a tartare steak with pore ashes and mustard seeds; even razor clams with tiger milk, coconut and sacha coriander oil; pizzas; burrata with fennel and roasted figs; yucas bravas (Peruvian version of the famous Spanish patatas bravas); angus beef burgers; Chicken and ham croquettes; Shrimp Scampi; and even desserts. The time to visit is when the craving so dictates. Now that the sun begins to rise, all times are good.
Address: Avenida Malecón 28 de julio, 385 Miraflores / Hotel Iberostar Selection – 18th floor (parking included)
Schedules: Monday to Sunday, from 4 pm to closing
Capacity: 96 people.
Instagram: @ 27tapas
Reservations are not accepted.